APRIL PRE-ORDER

NOTE ON EIBACH PRO-KIT AND SPORTLINE SPRING RATES

Pro-kit # 4031.140:
front right 137-223 lbs/in
front left 137-223 lbs/in
rears 143-263 lbs/in

Sportline # 4.3140:
front right 126-223
front left 126-223
rears 131-263

They are progressive and only slightly higher than stock. Some people have found a little bit more drop in the front than advertised.. in the 1.5" front and 1.0" rear area... so the car gets a subtle rake forward relative to stock with the Pro-Kit. I imagine the Sportline evens the Si out a it more because I'm guessing the weight of the Si's front has something to do with that rake change. The R18 engine cars (LX etc) have less weight in front; so the will drop less in front relative to the back. The Eibach part numbers are the same for both the K20 and R18 engine cars.

Both the Pro-Kit and Sportline are essentially a small increase from stock performance in the spring rate department but a big improvement in ride height/center of gravity. And combined with the Koni Sport shocks, you'll have a really really nice daily driver that can run really fast times on track too.

FURTHER ADVICE ON PERFORMANCE HANDLING FOR YOUR 2006+ HONDA CIVIC!

The advice I've given a few people already is that the RedShift suspensions will all work better with a Progress rear swaybar and RedShift Reinforcement Brackets (all available through Excelerate Performance). This is no different than any suspension packages, but running a rear bar allows you to run lower rates in the back, and that allows for a great daily driver that can hit the track and be fast. And lastly, the #1 problem on the new Civic is the lack of camber adjustment in front; so I HIGHLY recommend a set of 2 aftermarket camber bolts for the front of the car (1 per side) to give yourself more like 1.1-1.5 degrees negative. The more the better. If this were a trailered track car, we'd be running around 3.0 degrees negative; so 1.5 deg is better than 1.1 deg, but the more camber you put in, the more your tires will wear on the inside. The harder you drive, the more camber you should put in because you may already have found that you tend to wear out the outside of the tire with so little camber. I would start with 1.25 degrees negative camber on any setup and see how that works. You'll be blown away with how much better your car handles at the limit with more camber!

Ingalls P/N 35420 = ± 1° adjustment (1 bolt per box at about $11 each)..... need to purchase 2 of these for 1 bolt per side. This is probably all you want to run on a daily driver unless you are ok with reduced tire life).
Ingalls P/N 81260 = ± 2° adjustment (2 bolts per box at about $22 each)......need to purchase 2 of these for 2 bolts per side. More performance but reduced tire wear. Only do this if you really care about the last tenth of a second at the track.

Chris at RedShift